british fish and chips

The BBC reported today that there will be virtually no fish left to fish in fifty years' time unless a greater use is made of protected areas to safeguard fish stocks. Scientists at Stanford University predict that unless we change the way we manage all the ocean species together, as working ecosystems, then this century is the last century of wild seafood. This reading then led me on to another report entitled, "Has the fish supper had its chips?". As I am from England, and grew up with the famous fish and chips in newspaper from the "chippie", I was curious to find out how the English were reacting to the concept of not eating fish and chips. The article went on to report that about half of the world's fish stocks are at their biological limit, and another quarter are overfished or depleted. This, however, does not mean that fish has to be taken off the menu.

In this article Rupert Howes of the Marine Stewardship Council did not advise boycotting fish altogether, as this would lead to economic disaster for the fish industry, including those that are sustainably managed. Instead, he advocated that shoppers should use their power by only buying sustainably sourced fish in supermarkets and when eating in restaurants. But how do we know which fish to choose? The MSC has developed a blue eco-label which is affixed to seafood packaging and price labels in stores, so shoppers know that the fish is safe to buy. This program is about rewarding fisheries that operate in a sustainable way, and worldwide there are now 21 fisheries certified to the MSC standard. I even read that Wal-mart will be introducing this system into its stores in April 2007. The website fishonline.org provides a full list of fish that are safe to eat.

So back to the fish and chips. I guess if everyone is careful about where they buy their fish, they can stay on the menu. Anyone who visits England has the opportunity to go to the chip shop, but if you are looking for chips wrapped in newspaper, forget it. When I grew up, newspaper was used, but it was banned years ago for the sake of hygiene. The origin of fish and chips is not really known. Charles Dickens mentioned the selling of fried fish in 1837 in his novel,Oliver Twist, and by the 1850s fried fish and cooked potatoes were being sold on city streets. The first known fish and chip shop was opened in 1860 by Joseph Malin.

Many people make fish and chips at home, so if you are feeling adventurous, here's a recipe for Fish and Chips, taken from the excellent cook book, Williams-Sonoma London: Authentic Recipes Celebrating the Foods Of the World (Williams-Sonoma Foods of the World).

Fish and Chips

Ingredients for the Chips
4 large potatoes
Sunflower oil or corn oil for deep-frying
Fine sea salt

Ingredients for the Fish
2 tablespoons all purpose flour
Fine sea salt and freshly ground pepper
2 cups dried white breadcrumbs
1 large egg
4 cod or haddock fillets, about 5 ounces each, skin removed
Sunflower oil for panfrying

Parsley sprigs and lemon quartered to garnish

Recipe
1. To make the chips, cut the potatoes lengthwise into sticks about 1/4 thick. Place in a bowl of cold water and set aside to soak for 20 minutes to remove the excess starch.

2. While the potatoes are soaking, begin to prepare the fish: spread the flour on a plate and season with salt and pepper. Place the breadcrumbs on a separate plate. Crack the egg into a shallow bowl, beat lightly, and season with salt and pepper. Dust each fish fillet with the seasoned flour, then dip into the beaten egg, letting the excess drip back into the bowl. Finally dredge in the breadcrumbs, lightly pressing the crumbs onto all sides. Place the coated fillets in a single layer on a plate. Lightly cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until you are ready to cook the fish.

3. In a large, heavy frying pan over medium-high heat, pour in enough sunflower oil to reach a depth of 4 inches. Heat to 325degF, 165degC, on a deep-frying thermometer. Drain the potato sticks and pat dry with paper towels or a clean kitchen towel. Working in batches, carefully place the potato sticks in the hot oil and fry until crisp but not browned on the outside and tender but slightly firm on the inside, about 4 minutes. Do not overcrowd the pan or the oil will not be able to maintain the proper temperature. Using a slotted spoon, lift the potatoes from the hot oil, letting it drip back into the pan, and transfer to a wire rack lined with paper towels to drain. When the oil returns to 325defF, fry the remaining potatoes. When the potatoes have cooled, they can be laid on a baking sheet lined with paper towels and refrigerated for up to 4 hours until needed. Allow to return to room temperature before the second frying.

4. Shortly before you are ready to serve the chips, reheat the oil to 350defF. Again, working in batches, carefully place the potatoes in the hot oil and cook until golden and crisp, 4-5 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Sprinkle with salt and toss gently.

5. To cook the fish, pour in enough oil to generously cover the bottom of a large non-stick frying pan and set over medium heat. When the oil is hot, add the coated fillets and cook until golden brown, about 4 minutes. Turn and cook until golden brown on the second side, 4-6 minutes. The timing will depend on the thickness of the fillets; do not let the breadcrumbs burn. Transfer the fillets to paper towels to drain.

6. Divide the fish and chips among 4 warmed plates. Garnish with the parsley sprigs and lemon quarters and serve at once (or if you want to be really authentic, serve with salt and malt vinegar).

Serve with a pint of pale ale or full-bodied Chardonnay.